Skincare 101
If you’ve taken a trip to your local Target, CVS, or Sephora, you may have felt trapped by a literal skincare maze. Need a cleanser: did you want an AHA, a BHA, a gentle cleanser, a micellar water; should it foam; and which one of the 40 brands is best? A moisturizer: well, there is a lotion, a cream, a gel. Is the $20 one as good as the $60 one? Do I need a toner? What about vitamin C? Do I need a celebrity skincare line (news flash: you don’t)? The variables can leave even the most seasoned skincare aficionado overwhelmed.
So, where do you start? Good skincare – meaning the things needed for a healthy and functional skin barrier free of problems such as acne – can be very approachable and affordable with the right guidance. Are there great products that cost $100 or more - totally. Are there great products that cost $15-30 - also yes!
The foundation for a starter skincare routine is simple:
Morning Routine
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Morning Routine ///
1) Cleanse the skin
2) Moisturize (I usually recommend a cream, as these are more hydrating that lotions and less greasy than Vaseline)
3) Sunscreen
Evening Routine
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Evening Routine ///
1) Cleanse the skin
2) Retinoids *But not if you are pregnant or trying to conceive*
3) Moisturize
And, that’s it. Now – this is the foundation. Many patients will come in with issues ranging from rosacea and melasma to texture and dry skin. Therefore, this is a starting point before diving in to the specifics of your skin.
There are literally hundreds of cleansers with an even broader array of labels and active ingredients. For anyone who is just getting started, pick up a gentle cleanser – CeraVe, Cetaphil, Neutrogena, or Aveeno. Cleansing the skin removes debris and primes the skin for your next step.
Moisturizers are just as overwhelming. The reason I tell patients to utilize creams over lotions is 1) they are more effective for skin hydration, especially heading into the winter and 2) they will cause less stinging and irritation, especially for those using a retinoid or sensitive skin. The reason lotions can cause some burning with application is frequently tied to the alcohol added to the products to help them feel lighter weight. Again, CeraVe, Cetaphil, and Vanicream have fantastic options. I am a big La Roche-Posay Lipikar Balm fan due to its thicker texture that does not leave the skin tacky and, for those wanting a lighter product, Cetaphil’s Moisturizing Cream.
Sunscreen is the single most important item in you regiment. It should be applied, rain or shine, 365 days a year on the head and neck. As temperatures cool and days shorten, many patients think sunscreen becomes unnecessary. However, UV rays can be just as intense if not more so in the winter due to reflection on snow and ice. Additionally, the sun is the #1 factor that leads to the signs of aging – fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, - and skin cancer. The big picture for sunscreen is 1) SPF 30 or more that is broad spectrum, 2) a sunscreen that you like enough to wear daily AND reapply, and 3) water resistance if you are going to be doing athletic or water-based activities. Some personal faves include Isdin Eryfotonoa (on the expensive side but a great light weight product that leaves minimal cast), the Neutrogena Hydroboost with SPF 50 (a genuine crowd pleaser that is light and easy to apply), and Elta MD UV Clear.
For those who wear makeup, do not be fooled into thinking your makeup SPF is enough! You would need to apply ¼ to ½ teaspoon of makeup to get the labeled amount of SPF (that is a lot of product). Remember to apply sunscreen before your makeup.
Finally, lets briefly touch on retinoids. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. Retinols and Retinals are over-the-counter (OTC) formulations while retinoic acid is prescription. The one exception to this is adapalene (AKA Differin) which is now also OTC. Retinoids remain the gold standard for acne and skin rejuvenation. For patients struggling with mild acne, we will frequently recommend adapalene as a starter point and increase to a prescription retinoid from there. Many patients cannot tolerate retinoic acid so a retinol or retinal may be best!. Remember, retinoids are contraindicated in pregnancy so chat with your dermatologist to help create a pregnancy safe routine!
So there you have it, a simple but effective baseline routine. If you have questions about creating a skincare routine or are wanting to tackle a specific skin issue, consider chatting with a dermatologist (like myself here at Dapper Dermatology). For those with sensitive and rosacea prone skin, you may need a little more help to find tolerable and effective products. Healthy skin does not have to be expensive nor does it need to be complicated.
Dr. Adam Swigost, MD, FAAD
